Dala's 100NX

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Juucso
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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Juucso » 20. Mar 2016 00:06

Keen to see some more updates! This is one awesome project! 100NX is not one of my favorite cars, but damn, I love the attention to detail! Keep us updated. 8-)
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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 20. Mar 2016 16:28

Thanks man!

Here is another part of the puzzle completed, the driver side transmission mount.

Image

Again, this is the Performance Plus piece. It is very heavy duty. I scratched the paint during installation, so I had to splash some more on there to keep surface rust at bay. Another thing you could do with this mount is to weld it to the chassis, something I might do in the future.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 23. Mar 2016 22:44

The adventures of 6speed conversion continues

Here is the clutchline:
Image
It was custom made, since you cant use any Nissan OEM piece for this. A32 master -> P12 slave, 1m long. It cost 43€ from a local hydraulics store. Although pricey, it should outlast the life of the car. :) Should also result in a firmer pedal feel compared to stock rubber lines.

Another piece that showed up today was the axle carrier:
Image
A longer axle carrier is needed for this conversion. When you change to the beefier B15 axle, you shift the location for the carrier, making the stock one useless, since it's too far away. Mazworx makes a ready to rock axle carrier, reducing my time thinking about this to mere minutes. It is constructed out of aluminium, so it is lighter than the stock carrier. It also attaches with 4 bolts instead of the OEM 3. It costs 86$+shipping from the states. Well worth it if you ask me.

Next is mounting the pedal, and lining up the remaining mounts.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 27. Mar 2016 18:58

Phew, what an exhausting weekend. Pedal is in the car, with the cylinder and slave connected. Note to self, always bench-bleed stuff that has been run dry, saves heaps of time.

The gearbox has been in the car, for trial fitting the gearbox mounts. Ofcourse they didn't fit...
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So I had to modify them slightly. Some bolt holes were enlarged, other pieces were cut off, and re-welded in better positions. Oh, and I had to get longer bolts for every single gearbox fastener. It took me 3 nights to satisfied with the new rear and drivers side mounts. 6mm should be plenty for my power goals

Another thing I completed was the hybrid passenger side axle
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I got very lucky. The splines matched up perfectly between the B13 and B15 axle I had (27mm, 25splines). This is a very rare thing according to the 6speed swap thread over at sr20-forum.com. "2004 Spec-V 2.5MT w/ABS" is what I ordered.

Next is getting longer flywheel bolts sorted, and I can start to put this thing back together for a test drive.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 28. Mar 2016 10:08

On an unrelated topic, an update for TunerView just launched. This big update introduced screen recording:

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This is a transparent gauge overlay, applied over a video recording. This makes the datalogs soo much more interesting and valuable. You can now see what the car was doing at that moment (making sharp turn, going over hill etc.), and more easily make tuning changes for those situations. I am very excited about this feature, and will definitely be using it this summer.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 03. Apr 2016 21:39

I got some stuff done today!

The gear-stick + shifter cables came last friday. The donorcar was a "P12 2004 2.2L Diesel". Top is the old linkage system, bottom the more modern cable setup. It weighs considerably less!
Image

To get it to bolt up, the two front spacers need to be grinded down, along with the rubber bushing.
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Once it is in the car, 3/4 bolt holes will align perfectly. I think that is pretty neat for a 1991->2004 compability :). The fourth hole needs to be drilled a bit larger, and then it can be fully fastened in all corners.
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Don't mind the wiring you see in the picture. They belong to the arduino flexfuel converter, which will be deleted. The new breakout board will sort the conversion from now on.

Next order of business is to open up the firewall, so that the cables can be routed properly.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 02. May 2016 20:29

Time to update this thread. Here's a list of all the new stuff I've done this winter:
• 6speed JDM P12 gearbox
• Maxima A32 custom hybrid axles
• Mazworx axle carrier bracket
• Maxima clutch pedal+MC
• Braided SS clutch line+P12 slave cylinder
• P12 Dual mass flywheel + OEM clutch
• P12 Shifter+cables
• MLS Headgasket (VET)
• ARP headstuds
• Fresch OEM manifold injector orings
• New intake gaskets
• NEMU2 breakout board
• Sparkplugs, Nissan OEM (gap!)
• Used P10 Distributor
• Sparkplug cables
• Flexconverter delete, NEMU2 solves this now
• Wiring diet, many cables, fuses, relays deleted
• PCV Valve+grommet
• Turbo bolts and fastening hardware + gaskets
• Fuel relay ugrade
• New HT water hoses and clamps
• Gearbox oil (+flush)
• Coolant flush
• Ignition coil
• Second hand tuning laptop + reactivated Nismotronic
• Motor oil+filter+flush
• Flywheel bolts + pressure plate bolts (grade 12)
• PCV restrictor
• Charcoal canister delete
• Replaced front left brake rotor

I've worked silly hours to get this car on the road in time for 1:st of May. Just 4 days ago gearbox wasn't even mounted! My phone is on warranty, so you're gonna have to settle with pics from my pad, but this is now where I'm at:
Image

Everything major is OK. The gearbox is shifting perfectly, no weird noises or leaks. The headgasket also seems to hold up, but I need to get some more running hours to be sure everything is good. Since I suspect another oilchange is due this week, I initially filled it up with cheap 20W50 semi-syn oil. Gearbox also got supercheap oil, just to flush it out before getting some proper Redline MT90 in it. I am also loving the dual mass flywheel, the engagement is superb! Hydroclutch might have been one of the best upgrades I've ever done to this car.

But, there are still small things to sort out:
-Water/meth injection system isn't mounted at all
-LH axle contacting subframe when hitting large potholes
-Needs a retune bad. Running 16-17AFR while warming up. Haven't dared to go WOT yet, maybe after oil is changed.
-NEMU forgets tune, have to start it with laptop everytime. Ordered new surface mounted battery, John@JKTUNING suggested it might have gone bad.
-Shiftboot needs to be made from scratch. P12 shifter is so big, it hits the plastic surround.
-Flexfuel wiring acting up. Need to investigate this more, sensor unplugged for now.
-Intake VVL solenoid is dead. New ordered.

Image
All in all, I am very satisfied with it now. Once I get these small things sorted out, it's time to extract more power from it :)

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 15. May 2016 22:12

Now, what have I been up to? I replaced the broken VVL intake solenoid friday night. The new one (left) had a slightly different look, but the plug was the same and it worked perfectly. Excuse the horrible camera quality. My phone is still being reparied.
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Now that the high lobes are being used, I raised the rev limiter from 5000->7400rpm in the tune. I figured that everything is mechanically sound now, after two weeks of running everything in. I then ran the tank completely empty of the old winter storage 98E5, and filled up with 40L fresh E85 fuel.

I set out to fix some small things before logging some power runs. I read some forumthreads about rewiring the fuel pump circuit, and figured I'd give it a go. The benefit is more flow; the old 25 year old circuits are long and made with thin wire guage. This translates into voltage drops, and less fuel making it into the engine. The stock wires are so thin, they could give out under prolonged boost sessions (>11A current), so lets fix it!

I placed a relay (actually two, one as a spare) at the battery, and ran new wires to the pump. Have a blurry pic:
Image

For anyone interested in current draw at idle:
SR20DE stock 136lph - 2.9A
Walbro 255lph - 5.6A

That is twice the current draw! After doing the rewire, the walbro made a slightly higher pitch noise when turning the key to IGN. That means more flow, and more power potential! I really reccomend doing this mod, takes only a few minutes if you have a rear mounted battery. Now I can finally start tuning the new setup properly! Since the new headgasket is thicker, it lowers the compression ratio slightly. This makes the engine less efficient, and more ignition timing is required to stay at the same level as before. I am now using this timing map:
Image

A new fuel table is also needed. I had to start from scratch, and will probably go through many iterations of this map before I am satisfied. It is however safe with this setup, and its now a matter of removing fuel in various places to make more power. The fuel map is expressed in msec injector opening (- eventual injector deadtime!).
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Still only at 1700mbar after this session, but it's a whole new experience. With the new 6-speed LSD, torque steer is more noticeable, and you really have to keep both hands on the wheel during hard WOT pulls.

Scary is good, right? :)

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 02. Aug 2016 21:11

I have so much to update to this thread, feel bad for neglecting it so long. Pics have been taken, but I haven't had time to write up anything. Some of the things I've been up to;

-Homemade Arduino-based GPS speed signal generator
-NX1600 digidash cluster conversion
-Reinforced catback system
-Rear roll bar upgrade, de-rusting and new end links
-Top feed injector rail conversion underway
-Early tester of prototype coil-on-plug conversion circuit for distributor SR engines (or any Nissan from the 90's really)
-Total reregistration of car for E85/Turbocharger/Intercooler/Bigger rims(max 14" in stock papers!)
-Dyno papers required for proving that car only makes +25% power more than stock ;)

And a whole lot more I probably have forgotten already. :D

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 16. Oct 2016 20:08

I just need to start typing stuff down, or else I will forget how this goes.
Anyone can show you pics of exhaust reinforcements, fuel rail conversions, suspension maintenance etc., so I wont even bother adding pics of this. Let's get down to coil on plug prototyping. Spoiler alert, I run into trouble...

Here's a link to the open source cop controller: http://www.sr20-forum.com/tuning/79813- ... oller.html

Ebinkerd on SR20-forum wrote his thesis on COP converting cars using a minimum amount of parts. This equals to cheap. An average Honda B-series COP conversion costs over 800$! No way anyone would spend that amount of money for the minimal gains it makes on an early 90's car. So how expensive is Ebinkerd's solution? For me, using Honda CBR600 coils, driven by an AEM-4 channel controller, the total amount lands somewhere at 200$. This is an overkill setup, and you could easily drive it with a less powerful driver, so a total of barely over 100$ isn't impossible. Now that's starting to look a lot more achievable!
Let's look at the parts.

This is the prototype board
Image

This is the DIS_SRv3 proto, which anyone can build since it's open source.
I chose to go with as simple coils as you can. 2-wire Honda "short" styled coils, originally made for the motorcycle CBR600. Here's what they look like:
Image

Take a look at that price! They do come with a downside, you need an external driver circuit for these, since they are only 2-wire. This brings us to the next item, an AEM 4-channel coil driver:
Image

The reason I went with this more expensive driver, is because I plan to run switchable wasted/sequential spark, like this:
Image

I will set the output in NEMU to run wasted spark at below 1200mbar load, and directly when manifold pressure exceeds this limit, it will switch over to fully sequential. This will (in theory) improve emissions on low loads, and provide stronger spark at higher loads since the coil has more time to charge. We'll get more into detail on this later on.
Now for some actual mounting of this hardware.
Image

The AEM instructions specifically instructed to use a flat piece of metal for mounting, along with thermal grease. I cut out a thick piece of alu, and mounted the stock ignition power transistor along with it. The stock tiny one is actually not needed, but it's so small so I let it still exist on the engine.
Next up some wiring.
Image

I braided the connectors, and you can see where the AEM drive is hiding, right above the VVL solenoids. You can also spot the modified distributor, which now turned into this ugly beast:
Image

Dear lord, get it out of my eyes! It's so ugly, but does the job perfectly. I modofied it internally, by cutting off the shaft that originally goes to the rotor. This allows me to put a blank alu-plate over it. It now operates exactly like a Cam Angle Sensor (CAS). You could get an OEM SR20VET 20V CAS, but those cost money. It's still working, so why replace it?

Lets start testing.
Image

This is where I ran into issues. More in next post.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 17. Oct 2016 12:41

So before we delve into what went wrong, let's take a look at how the standard SR engine's speed and phase measurement works.

Image

Sorry, blurry pic from the web;
This is the stock distributor/CAS. Inside it, there are two optical sensors. There are two sets of stamped holes, one is the 360 slots which measures Camshaft Position (CP). The other one is the 4 slots (note one longer!) which measures Camshaft Reference (CR). The longer hole in the reference is what's used to synchronize what cylinder is firing first.
Worth noticing is that there is no crankshaft sensor. SR engines operate only with camshaft sensors. RPM, firing order, everything is taken from this sensor. Another fun fact is that you can disconnect the 360 degree signal when the engine is running. It will not run great, but it will stay alive.

Image
DISSR_v3

So what does the DISSR prototype board actually do? Putting it simplified, it just keeps track of the firing order, and sets an output to high once it's time for that cylinder to fire. That's it!

So I set out to install this on the engine, and wanted to test it out before installing it permanently. Just throwing it into the engine bay, and piggybacking on the CR&CP signals coming from the CAS. I removed the CAS from the engine, so I could rotate it by hand but also with an electric drill if I wanted more RPM.

To capture what was going on, I used my cheap chinese Hantec PC oscilloscope. It's a really bad oscilloscope, but I could atleast see what was happening. It is only equipped with two channels, so really inadequate for what I wanted to measure. Anyways, I hooked everything up, and got a strange glitch:

Image

Image

Image

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As you can decipher from the screenshots, I got a strange glitched ignition on 2/4 cylinders. This is very dangerous, since running an engine with random firing pulses can easily result in detonation with catastrophic results. I've spent 3 weekends trying to get this to work, but I'm gonna have to throw in the towel and try another board. Ebinkerd has kindly supported me with a newer revision that I'm very eager to try. We tried everything from shielded wires, probing the DISSR internally, but everything unfortunately points towards a broken chip. I am still very eager to continue with this conversion, since the end result will do wonders for my ignition quality. And hey, when stuff doesn't work you learn so much more :)

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 20. Nov 2016 20:35

The COP board design is evolving.

Image

To try and combat the glitches, we utilized opto-isolators between the sequencer and driver side. By also removing the edge connector, there are less overlapping traces on the board. These two changes will drastically improve the noise filtering, having the ground current loop controlled.

ebinkerd tested the proof of concept, here's a link to a video of him testing it out on 1 cylinder
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B53t_Z ... pucGM/view

Image

Progress is slow, but I will update once we get this on engine.

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 21. Apr 2017 14:42

Time to update what's happened in the last few months.The whole ignition project grew in size, what was supposed to be a quick ignition upgrade turned into an open-source ignition platform.

The DIS_SR board designed by ebinkered was ultimately scrapped. Interference on the sequencing was the final nail in the coffin, making testing on engine dangerous and fruitless. Since the sequencing has the potential to break an engine if fired incorrectly, I started an alternate development branch.

Being quite familiar with Atmega processors I decided to try and make the logical circuit into a digital application instead. As always, Arduino Uno being the prime candidate for a project like this. The functional description is quite straightforward:

Code: Select all

This application samples in two distributor signals, Camshaft Reference & Camshaft Position (CR & CP)
It then syncs the firing sequence to Cylinder 1, and ignores CP information from there on.
It then outputs 4 digital outs depending on which cylinder should fire. 
The output is led into a logical AND gate (TC4468) with the original ECU Ignition signal.
The result is driving the coils
Here is a crude paint schematic:
Image

Converted into a prototype circuit (sorry about image quality)
Image

Completed protocase with phoenix connector (sorry about image quality)
Image

Since I am running Honda motorcycle coils, the dwell must be retuned in Nismotronic. If you were to just use the standard dwell settings for the big OEM Nissan coil, the motorcycle coils would risk overheating quite quickly. I got the dwell parameters from AEM's tuning software.
Image

Link to Github page: https://github.com/dalathegreat/Arduino-Coil-On-Plug

Video of it actaully running


So why do all this? I now have full control over all ignition parameters. I can run wasted spark (for better emissions), fully sequential (for max high rpm performance), or even have it switch on the fly between wasted/sequential operation. If I really wanted to, I could run multi-strike with some changes to the board. The possibilities are endless.

Maybe I can go for a katsastus soon... :)

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 24. Apr 2017 21:19

After giving the ignition system a complete overhaul, it was time to set the mechanical timing to match with the ECU timing. I grabbed a trusty stroboscope and went to town, only to find out that I had no visible markings on the crankshaft pulley.

The torsional damper frickin slipped. Time to get a new pulley. In this picture you can see how much the outer layer of the pulley has separated. Circa 90 degrees off.

Image

The new pulley is a Gspec under-drive solid aluminium pulley. Torsional vibrations will increase due to it being a solid piece, but I'm not too worried. A nice weight reduction is also achieved by going alu, plus it under-drives the generator. The generator belt shrinks from 4pk833 ->4pk800, waterpump/powersteering stayed the same size.

With the new pulley in place, timing synced nicely up with the final IGN map value. Didn't even bother to put it in timing mode like the original ECU requires, since it's easy to see that the final map value is 15* with TPS closed fully. Another piece done, now only to solve the pesky misfire at high rpms...

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