Dala's 100NX

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Tuppurainen
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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Tuppurainen » 11. Jan 2015 20:49

Looks good ;) Keep going!
Toyota Crown JZS171W -03
Volvo V50 D2 -12

Ex:
Toyota Corolla CXI 1.6 -96
Toyota Hiace 4WD 2.4 -89
BMW E39 530D -00

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Dala
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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 15. Feb 2015 15:15

Time to make this car into a flex-fuel vehicle! In Nismotronic, you can add a flex fuel sensor into the breakout board (0-5V), and have it control IPW from 1.00-3.00, Advancing/retarding spark and finally adding/reducing wastegate duty-cycle.

This is what the flex setup page looks like in Nismotronic:
Image

This piece of engineering arrived yesterday:
Image
It's a Continental flexfuel sensor, designed for 2012+ GM vehicles. It outputs a 50-150HZ signal depending on ethanol content. I need to convert this signal to a regular voltage signal.

Time to start programming. I'm using an Atmega644p microprocessor+a small LCD. I simulated a PWM output, and sampled it back into the microprocessor. You NEED an oscilloscope for this kind of R&D!
Image

No flex sensor hooked up yet, only simulated in/out
Image

I will share the code (easy to convert to other microprocessors) once I have it on the car and I'm 100% sure there are no bugs. I am using OC0A (PinB3) for PWM output (0-5V). OC1A (PinD5) is used for 50-150Hz input. Timers are powering all the calculations.
Image

You can buy a premade HZ-Voltage converter + display, but that costs about 200€... I think you learn abit more when building one from scratch :)

Stay tuned for on car install!

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Dala
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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 19. Feb 2015 11:57

The planned projects for 2015 keep on piling up!

Ordered a Bluetooth module for Nismotronic, it looks like this
Image

With a bluetooth module, I can pair up an android device with Nismotronic. This is what a tablet/mobilephone running tunerview looks like
Image

I promise next update will involve me actually tinkering with the car :)

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Dala
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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 12. Mar 2015 11:50

Flex fuel sensor mounted on return line and microcontroller stashed in the glovebox. Works beautifully!
Image

The idee of a 14€ homemade converter+display really took off on sr20forum, so I'm making an open source solution for arduinos, will look something like this:
Image

Screw you zeitronix and your +200€ display :D

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 17. Mar 2015 15:05

It's getting warmer and warmer every day :)

Installed a remote lock/unlocking kit, now I can finally stop fiddlig around with the old worn lock on the driversdoor! :D
Image

I need to change to summertires asap, I chirp 1st,2nd and 3rd! :D

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 21. Mar 2015 20:39

Finished my opensource flex fuel converter, here's the code for an Arduino Uno + LCD

Code: Select all

/*******************************************************
This program will sample a 50-150hz signal depending on ethanol 
content, and output a 0-5V signal via PWM.

Connect PWM output to NEMU Breakoutboard on ADC0-3, and tune
the "FLEX FUEL SETUP" tab accordingly. NOTE: Lowpass filter to
be used on output.

Input pin 8 (PB0) ICP1 on Atmega328
Output pin 3 PWM

If LCD Keypad shield is used, solder jumper from Pin 8 - Pin 2,
and snip leg from pin 8 http://i.imgur.com/KdlLmye.png
********************************************************/

// include the library code:
#include <LiquidCrystal.h> //LCD plugin

// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins 
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 9, 4, 5, 6, 7); //LCD Keypad Shield

int inpPin = 8;     //define input pin to 8
int outPin = 11;    //define PWM output, possible pins with LCD are 3, 10 and 11 (UNO)
//int outPin2 = 3;    //temporary PWM, for simulating 489HZ 

//Define global variables
volatile uint16_t revTick;    //Ticks per revolution
uint16_t pwm_output  = 0;      //integer for storing PWM value (0-255 value)
int HZ = 0;                  //unsigned 16bit integer for storing HZ input
int ethanol = 0;              //Store ethanol percentage here
uint16_t voltage = 0;              //store display millivoltage here (0-5000)

void setupTimer()	 // setup timer1
{           
	TCCR1A = 0;      // normal mode
	TCCR1B = 132;    // (10000100) Falling edge trigger, Timer = CPU Clock/256, noise cancellation on
	TCCR1C = 0;      // normal mode
	TIMSK1 = 33;     // (00100001) Input capture and overflow interupts enabled
	
	TCNT1 = 0;       // start from 0
}

ISR(TIMER1_CAPT_vect)    // PULSE DETECTED!  (interrupt automatically triggered, not called by main program)
{
	revTick = ICR1;      // save duration of last revolution
	TCNT1 = 0;	     // restart timer for next revolution
}

ISR(TIMER1_OVF_vect)    // counter overflow/timeout
{ revTick = 0; }        // Ticks per second = 0


void setup()
{
 setupTimer();
   // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows:
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  // Initial screen formatting
  lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
  lcd.print("Ethanol:     %");
  lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
  lcd.print("    Hz      mV");
}
 
void loop()
{
  if (revTick > 0) // Avoid dividing by zero, sample in the HZ
		{HZ = 62200 / revTick;}     // 3456000ticks per minute, 57600 per second 
		else                        // 62200 calibrated for more accuracy
		{HZ = 0;}                   

  //calculate ethanol percentage
		if (HZ > 50) // Avoid dividing by zero
		{ethanol = HZ-50;}
		else
		{ethanol = 0;}

if (ethanol > 100) // Avoid overflow in PWM
{ethanol = 100;}

  //Screen calculations
  pwm_output = 255 * (ethanol*0.01); //calculate output PWM for NEMU
  voltage = ethanol*50; //calculate voltage (mV) for display
  
  lcd.setCursor(10, 0);
  lcd.print(ethanol);
  
  lcd.setCursor(1, 1);
  lcd.print(HZ);
  
  lcd.setCursor(8, 1);
  lcd.print(voltage);
  
  //PWM output
  analogWrite(outPin, pwm_output); //write the PWM value to output pin
  //analogWrite(outPin2, 40); //489.9Hz test output
  
  delay(100);  //make screen more easily readable by not updating it too often
  
}
Changed my converter over to the more simple arduino using the above code:
Image

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 29. Apr 2015 20:33

Long time no post, but now I'm back at it! I just finished handing in my thesis for final evaluation, and will be collecting my bachelor's degree in electrical/automation later this month. All evenings free wohoo!

Back to the build, mounted the arduino permanently(will post pic after cleaning it up), and connected the analog output to Nismotronic:
Image

No more worrying about fuel-quality :D

Fixed a boost leak by the idle air hose, connected it to a charge air pipe instead of pre-turbo. Should have done this a year ago! :D Now I can tune fuelmap at >1600mbar properly. So I set the wastegate to 1600, and did a few runs;
Image

And, as you can notice here, my injectors are maxed out. For the third fricking time. If I want to up the boost, I will need bigger injectors for sure :) Guess STi 555cc injectors only get you so far, Deatschwerks 740cc seems to be the next logical upgrade.

My bluetooth module hasn't arrived yet ;( I wonder what postal office it is hiding at..

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Pete » 29. Apr 2015 21:40

Rest of us.

JDM only.

JZX100 Chaser + ZVW35 käyttis
ex Legacy BR9 GT
ex Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo-R
ex Crown Athlete GRS184
ex Atenza
ex Soarer
ex Xedos 6

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 17. May 2015 14:47

What did I do today? I just ordered a 126ml/min methanol nozzle, looks something like this
Image
The reason I'm piecing together a water/meth injection kit from scratch instead of just buying everything in a 300-400€ combo, is because I don't need a controller. The often expensive controller that comes with premade injection kits have a boost activated circuit, that I have absolutely no use of since I can activate it with Nismotronic. More on this later as I collect more parts.

I have also done some exhaust gas temp monitoring;
E85 (76% ethanol according to analyzer):
-Low load cruise(80kmph): 520*C
-Higher load cruise(100kmph): 550*C
-With a long 4:th gear pull, the exaust gas temperature peaks at 710*C (and the speed got abit on the high side :P)

If I were to test this with normal fuel, I'd estimate the temps would hit way over 800*C, so I think it's running safely in this aspect. It will be interesting to see how injecting water will affect the temperatures and performance...

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 18. May 2015 13:40

Thought I might post up some more info about injecting water into the engine. Do note that this is a highly discussed topic, with many different opinions on where to inject, how much to inject, what timing and air/fuel ratio to aim for with water injection etc. The setup I am shooting for will in most cases not work particularly well for your setup, so do your homework before committing :)

Water injection (or water/methanol injection), is a way to suppress detonation in combustion engines. This is not a new concept, and was first introduced in the early 20th century in military airplanes, for an extra power boost during take-offs or dogfights.

Injecting water alone does not increase power output. You will need to combine water injection with a turbo/super-charger, and more aggressive timing. If you just hook up a water/meth kit to your car, and run it untuned, you will most likely LOSE power. This is why having a realtime tuneable ECU is so important.

Water injection can also be used to reduce fuel consumption. When tuning with water injection, you can remove some fuel (because the injected water is now taking up some space), and still have a combustion that doesn’t preignite since the water cools the process.

High compression engines cannot handle as much water as lower compression engines. This is due to the quench pads often present in the combustion chamber on high comp engines. This will make the water saturated charge air harder to ignite. This is solved by either injecting less water, igniting the mixture earlier or producing a stronger spark. Engines with twin sparkplugs per cylinder are more suitable here. Injecting less water is easiest :)

So, where to inject the water? There are many variables here, each location with pros/cons, but also heavily depending on your specific engine setup

• Pre turbocharger
• Pre intercooler
• Post intercooler
• Pre throttle body
• Post throttle body
• Each manifold runner (4 injectors on 4cyl engine)
• Direct cylinder injection

Funnily enough, the simplest setup, pre turbocharger, will often be the most beneficial setup. If you inject water directly into the turbocharger, it will cool the air as it compresses, making a small turbocharger perform like a big turbocharger! This comes with one major drawback, which is impeller wear. Think of it like water sanding your turbo blades. Bigger water injection here accelerates the wear.

When injecting into a charge air pipe, you will need to use atleast a 3bar injection pressure. Also make sure the charge air doesn’t push out the wrong way, one way valves are good for this. Injecting post intercooler is better than pre intercooler, or else you lower your intercoolers effectivity.

Throttlebody isn’t really that good of a location to spray at, but if you don’t have any other choice, go for it.

Making a setup for each manifold runner is complex, and if one injectors clogs your engine won’t be balanced, making for a very dangerous lean situation in the affected cylinder.

Direct cylinder injection isn’t really feasible for the average spannerhead, it will be very expensive

So, what is planned for the SR20VET? Pre-turbo or post intercooler spray location seems like the best choice for me. Since it is a high compression engine, I won’t go crazy with the flow rate. I just ordered a 3bar water pump, (made for a freshwater boat lol) off ebay for 50$. This brings the total cost for this project up to 80$ (nozzle+pump). The tank I will scavenge from a scrapcar, and some hose aswell. More on this subject as it progresses!

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 25. May 2015 19:12

This weekend I made progress on several areas, it all started with an oil+filter change...

I then simplified my air intake significantly. The new one was made from a leftover intercooler pipe, here you can see the old above, and the new below:
Image

Let me explain to you why this is such a big deal. See that old bung on the top right? The one with only a few mm diameter? That was my air bypass hose! Shameful is what it is, making my turbo surge and chatter during gearchanges due to it not being able to relieve pressure correctly. After making a big bung on the new intercooler pipe, seen below, there is no more compressor surge during gearchanges.

Another quick hack on the old piping you might have spotted, is that the MAF was still present. I didn't have the right silicone hose bends, so I used the MAF as an adapter. This severely restricted my piping, and the new setup is lightyears better. It also weighs less and looks better Shouldalso make a tiny bit more power now

I searched thru some junk my dad brought home from work, found a 24V solenoid rated for 12 bar max pressure. Tested to energize it with 10-14V, worked just as fine. Threw some sleeve at it aswell:

Image

This will contain the charge air whilst the secondary injection system is inactive.

On sunday, I tried to raise the boost by an additional 100mbar, but it made the clutch slip even more in third gear. Now I HAVE to start solving this, or any additional power will be wasted. Time to order some expensive bits

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by joksak » 26. May 2015 22:01

All the little detailed bits make this build so friggin' awesome. There's so much going on under the hood here, that every car or tech enthusiast should like it when it's finished.
Nyt jo seitsemäs japsi menossa..

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 30. May 2015 07:06

bPXytZB
YufTrgj
10askTn
http://i.imgur.com/10askTn.jpg

Thx :)

Yesterday a package I've been waiting an eternity for showed up. I present to you, the NEMU bluetooth module:
Image

Installation is pretty straightforward. Remove ECU from car, remove NEMU, solder 4-pin connector, connect bluetooth module, and reinstall everything to the car! I didn't document this progress any more, since the information on how to do this is very well documented over at the sr20-forum. Here's my end result:
Image

Pretty nifty, but what are the advantages? Now I never have to drag my 15.6" laptop with me every time I wan't to datalog or look at any live data. There is also a future version of the Nismotronic software in the works, that will allow you to skip the USB cable, and do all the tuning via bluetooth instead. I downloaded TunerView onto my new android phone, and this is what the app looks like:
Image

Now I can proceed with the water injection... :)

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 31. May 2015 20:15

I started planning the water injection system. Here are the pump specifications:
Image

It was rated 0.7 bar higher than in the ebay listing, so I'm very happy :) 3.7 bar total pressure should atomise the water nicely.

I plan to install this system in the trunk, and make it a easily removable module
Image

Lets go through what we have here. I'm mounting everything on a big chunk of stainless steel I found in the trash. I'm reusing the 5L windshield washer bottle reservoir I removed when I turboed the car. It has an integrated low level indicator switch that I plan to incorporate in the system. I also sourced a 0-10bar pressure gauge from the parts bin. I still need a few components, like relays, hoses and connectors before I can start bench-testing it. The injector nozzle should show up in a few days.

This is a very improvised system, so don't hate me :)

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Re: Dala's 100NX

Post by Dala » 03. Jun 2015 17:45

The final piece of the puzzle showed up in the mail today:

Image

This is the entry level AIS 126ml/min nozzle, equipped with a 80-micron removable & cleanable filter. It has 1/8NPT threads on both ends. You can go even smaller than this, there are 62ml/min options for smaller displacement engines.

After reading many forums, I've come to the conclusion to run both pre-turbo and post intercooler spray. This very small nozzle will run pre-turbocharger, and spray directly at the impeller. This will make the tiny T25 act like a much bigger snail :). After I get the system running, I will expand with another 200-300ml nozzle post IC.

Hoping to get some results this weekend :)

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